Materials – Resources

ABRASION RESISTANCE

Term that refers to the ability of a fabric to resist everyday wear + tear caused by surface contact (flat rubbing) with another material. The two test methods commonly used by the textile industry to measure and assess levels of abrasion resistance are the Wyzenbeek method (see ‘W’) and the Martindale method (see ‘M’).

ACT® PERFORMANCE GUIDELINES

A set of popular tests created and adopted by the Association for Contract Textiles (ACT) to make fabric specification easier across the entire contract interiors market. Performance features tested includes things like abrasion, flame resistance and wet + dry crocking.

ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH

Chemical treatment applied to a fabric to combat the growth of disease-causing microbes, general bacteria, infectious diseases and various other targeted organisms.

BACKING

The polymer or resin treatment that is applied to the back of a textile. The type of backing affects how easily the textile can be upholstered. (We offer a variety of backing materials that are all thoroughly tested for performance so you can choose the one that’s right for the needs of your environment.)

BRUSH PILL TEST

One of several testing methods designed to assess a fabric’s tendency to pill or form ‘fuzzy balls’ on its surface due to normal abrasion during use. The results are rated for pill frequency on a five-step scale: Class 5 = No pilling; Class 4 = Slight pilling; Class 3 = Moderate pilling; Class 2 = Severe pilling; Class 1 = Very severe pilling. (All of our textiles pass a Class 3 rating—the minimum requirement set by the ACT®.)

CARD

A type of marketing literature that shows available textile options (colorways and patterns) within a single textile collection. A good, quick reference for dealers and designers to have on hand before ordering larger memo samples. Can be ordered by contacting your local sales rep.

CARDED

A term used to describe textile collections that are managed by the brand directly via pre-arranged partnerships with the textile vendor or manufacturer. Because of this direct relationship, brands can guarantee lead time for these textiles as well as pre-test and fully approve them for their own models so it’s easier to specify and order. You can browse all of our carded collections here or see them in action on Chairbuilder.

COM/COL

An acronym that stands for Customer’s Own Material/Customer’s Own Leather. A shorthand way of referring to any material the customer wishes to use on his/her order that isn’t provided or available directly by the furniture manufacturer.

DOUBLE RUBS

A commonly used phrase that loosely refers to the level of durability a textile has. Describes the way a user brushes up and down against the seat edge or seat back while sitting and standing (sitting down equals a single rub, standing back up is the second rub.) All of our textiles pass at least 30,000 double rubs—the minimum requirement recommended by the ACT®.

EMBOSSING

An engraving process that uses heated rollers under pressure to produce a raised design on the fabric’s surface.

FINISH

Any process performed on yarn or fabric after weaving to improve the look, performance or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile.

GRADE

Industry-wide textile rating that denotes price level according to and based on the type of material. In other words—the higher the grade, the higher the cost. (We offer 14 fabric grades and 15 leather grades—check our Textile Reference Guide for more information.)

GRADED

A term used to describe pre-approved fabrics ordered directly through the textile manufacturer. Because brands often don’t carry these fabrics in their own inventory, availability or lead times are usually not guaranteed—these are all subject to the vendor’s own policies and offerings. (Our graded-in fabrics are still easy to specify with and order because they all have a part number in our system—so you can still flow through our standard order process instead of submitting a COM request. Search all of our Graded-In fabrics here.)

HAND

The “feel” of a fabric when handled. Factors that affect a fabric’s hand include things like content, weight, construction and finishing processes.

HEALTHY HOSPITALS INITIATIVE

A set of textile criteria put together by twelve of the largest, most influential U.S. health organizations (including Kaiser Permanente, Center for Health Design and Advocate Health Care) to create safer healthcare communities and working environments. The requirements include things like eliminating the use of formaldehyde, perfluorinated compounds, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), antimicrobials and all flame retardants. (Check out our list of HHI compliant textiles here.) Links to the HHI document on our site OR the Materials Resources “Healthcare Solutions page”.

INTERLINING

Fabric added to a garment when more warmth is needed (just like inside your warmest winter coat!). Can be constructed separately from the actual garment; sometimes it’s detachable. Can be made from a heavier fabric with batting added or something more lightweight like flannel or fleece.

JUNGLE TEST

Nickname for a hydrolysis test conducted on polyurethane materials to assess its overall quality (because not all polyurethanes are created equal!). Fabric in question is compared against a polyurethane control sample to measure the rate of breakdown/failure by noting things like surface cracking, delaminating of the film layer from the backing or extreme changes in color/gloss level.

KNITTING

The process of inter-looping yarns or inter-meshing loops used to create most fabrics.

LIGHTFASTNESS

A term used to describe how fade-resistant colourants like dyes and pigments are when exposed to light for prolonged periods of time. (All of our textiles have passed the minimum requirements put forth by the ACT®.)

LOOMSTATE

Term used to describe ‘raw’ fabric as it comes directly off the loom before going through any post weaving treatment.

MARTINDALE

One of two commonly used abrasion-testing methods for contract textiles. (The other popular abrasion test is the WYZENBEEK—see ‘W’.) Fabric samples are mounted flat and rubbed using a piece of worsted wool cloth until two yarn breaks occur or there is an appreciable change in shade or appearance. There is no correlation between the Wyzenbeek and Martindale tests. In other words, it is not possible to estimate the number of cycles that would be achieved on one test if the results from the other test are known.

MILL

A manufacturing facility where different types of fibers, like yarn or fabric, are produced and processed into usable consumer products.

MOISTURE BARRIER

A protective finish applied to a fabric that prevents liquids from passing through.

MULTI-UPHOLSTERY

The multi-upholstery option allows one fabric to be selected for the back of the chair and a different fabric to be added for the seat. SitOnIt Seating upholstery pricing is based on both the seat and the back being the same textile. 

Otherwise:

If two fabrics of the same grade are chosen, one grade level will be added to the upholstery price. Example: grade 4 for the seat and a different grade 4 for the back, the upholstery price will be 5 for both.

If two fabrics of different grades are chosen, the final upholstery price will be based on the highest grade. Example: grade 2 for the seat and grade 3 for the back, the upholstery price will be grade 3 for both.

NEEDLE-PUNCHED

The process of passing a fabric through a series of needles that penetrates to fill in the gaps by entangling the fibers (as opposed to traditional weaving; the textile that results from this process is sometimes referred to as “non-woven”).

NYLON

The first completely synthetic fiber ever developed. First produced in 1938. Known for its excellent resilience and superior abrasion resistance as well as high strength and flexibility.

OELFIN

A synthetic fiber made from polyolefin. Usually pretty strong and colorfast with a moderate resistance to staining, mildew, abrasion and fading due to sunlight.

PIECE-DYED

Describes a dyeing process in which the fabric is woven in with natural yarns first, then dyed to create color (as opposed to YARN-DYEING—see ‘Y’.) Piece-dyeing gives mills more flexibility in meeting color demands because it’s a faster process overall.

PILLING

An undesirable surface defect of textiles caused by wear + tear (like when your favorite sweater starts to form little balls). Caused by loose fibers that start to push out from the surface of the cloth. Over time, abrasion causes these fibers to develop into small spherical bundles.

POLYESTER

A manufactured fiber introduced in the early 1950s; second only to cotton in terms of worldwide use. Polyester has high strength (although somewhat lower than nylon), excellent resiliency and high abrasion resistance.

POLYURETHANE

Any soft, supple performance fabric that is made by coating a textile substrate with a polyurethane resin (that acts as a built-in moisture barrier). Made from multiple layers that add varying levels of dimension and depth; comes in many styles and textures. Often used in high-traffic environments and other consumer products and industries including apparel, footwear, handbags and accessories.

QUILTED

A method of sewing or attaching two layers of cloth together with an insulating layer of batting in between to produce extra warmth and a distinct, patterned aesthetic.

RESIMERCIAL

A made-up term in the furniture world that describes the trend of incorporating residential style inside a commercial space.

REVERSE CROCKING

Term used to describe the transfer of dye from a user’s clothing onto the textile it’s in contact with. Most common example of this phenomenon is denim dye transferring onto light colored, coated materials.

SILICONE

A synthetic compound that is highly durable and sustainable; an environmentally-friendly alternative to both vinyl and polyurethane. Inherently anti-microbial; made using zero solvents or PVC; bleach-cleanable and ink-erasable. An ideal choice for higher education, healthcare and other high-traffic environments.

SEAM SLIPPAGE

Term used to describe when fabric pulls apart at a seam due to weight strain and/or normal wear + tear. (All of our textiles meet or exceed a minimum of 25 lbs.—a limit set by the ACT®.)

SLUB

Technically, a lump or thick spot in a yarn or any irregular appearance of a fabric. Once thought of as a defect from the weaving process, this aesthetic is now seen a popular, organic look.

TENSILE STRENGTH

The ability of fiber, yarn, or fabric to resist breaking under tension. Measured by gripping the fabric with clamps on both ends and pulling while weight is applied. Test is performed in both directions (up and down, side to side). The weight that causes the fabric to break or tear determines the rating. (All of our textiles meet or exceed a minimum of 50 lbs.—a requirement set by the ACT®.)

UP THE ROLL

A term that describes the way fabric naturally comes off of its roll or off the loom (direction in which a fabric is normally applied when upholstered).

VINYL

Any textile covered with a synthetic, plastic coating that creates a ‘laminated’ effect and feel. Sometimes called Polyvinyl Chloride resin or PVC. Excellent resistance to abrasion, moisture, cleaning chemicals and UV exposure. Commonly used in automotive, marine and RV products as well as residential and commercial furniture.

WARP

Direction of yarn when it runs lengthwise in a loom or woven fabric; parallel to the selvage (the bonded edge of fabric pieces that helps to keep the whole thing from unraveling).

WEFT

Yarns on a loom that cross over and under the threads that run lengthwise to the loom (AKA the warp) to make fabric. Sometimes referred to as the ‘filling”.

WYZENBEEK

One of two commonly used abrasion testing methods for contract textiles. (The other popular abrasion test is the MARTINDALE—see ‘M’.) Test fabric is pulled taut inside a frame while individual test specimens are cut and rubbed back and forth using an ACT approved fabric until two yarn breaks occur or when appreciable wear is reached.*
 

*There is no correlation between the Wyzenbeek and Martindale tests. In other words, it is not possible to estimate the number of cycles that would be achieved on one test if the results from the other test are known.

X-DYEING

Short for cross-dyeing; a method of coloring fabrics that are made from more than one kind of fiber (i.e. a wool and cotton blend) where each fiber takes a specific dye in a different color; often variations of a single color or colors are used to create a patterned, multi-colored effect.

YARN

A continuous strand of textile fibers created when a cluster of individual fibers are twisted together; used to create fabrics by either knitting or weaving.

YARN-DYED

Process where the yarn is dyed first before being woven or knitted; typically a longer process than piece-deying (see P – PIECE-DYEYING)

ZIBELINE

A thick soft fabric made of wool and other animal hair, such as mohair, with a flattened silky, outer surface.